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An American Journey into French Wine Culture

Ginny Blackwell

November 8, 2024
I’m almost reluctant to write about French wines, as I know enough to be dangerous but not trustworthy. Will you bear with me as I cross this threshold with a bit of trepidation?

I am soothed by the notion that I do know more than many of my fellow Americans about the ways of the wine world in France, but I know so much less than those who have “dug deeply” into that world. 

So, perhaps there’s a place for the wine writer who knows enough to safely order a rosé for a summer menu à prix fixe in the Languedoc but conversely can’t begin to recall the subtleties of the various terroirs in France. Que pensez-vous?

Wine-Related Stories from France

I will share some wine-related stories from my 50+ years in France, and then I will reach out to my fractional ownership owners who can provide more location-specific details.

Maybe my Dordogne area La Bruyère owners will recall the four-hour food and wine pairing meals at Madame Moutiers, now recognized as Famille Moutier Thénac, which serves one of my favorite foie gras wines, Monbazillac.

Speaking of sweet wines…

Let’s explore Banyuls wines (near Catalonia on the Sea), as these pair nicely with fruits and creamy desserts.

The unique sweetness of Banyuls comes from a method called mutage, where grape spirits are added during fermentation to retain natural sugars and enhance the wine’s depth

The Banyuls wine region is located in the southern part of the Roussillon area near the French-Spanish border along the Mediterranean coast.

The Banyuls wine appellation

Although its named after the scenic town of Banyuls-sur-Mer, there are about 4 main communes that make up the Banyuls wine appellation. These towns form the heart of the region where challenging coastal terrains require hand-harvesting. This rugged, terraced region is specifically designated for producing Banyuls AOC wines, which include both the sweet Banyuls wines and the drier Banyuls Grand Cru.

  • Cerbère – The last town before the Spanish border, known for its scenic views and vineyards on steep, rocky slopes

  • Banyuls-sur-Mer – The town for which the wine is named, renowned for its seaside charm and as a key production area.

  • Collioure – another coastal town famous for its fortified wines, anchovies, and beautiful beaches.

  • Port-Vendres – An active port town known for its fresh seafood and Mediterranean ambiance.

Cherished Memories of French Wine

While living at Moulin a Vent or Maison Bleue, how can I forget the numerous times we went to the St. Chinian Sunday market and came home with a casque of gorgeous wine from that terroir (Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah)? Or the award-winning Chardonnay from Domaine Lou Columbier near La Placette and Crazy for Cruzy?

A Lesson in French Hospitality

Where to begin? I must rewind to 1974 when my Paris roommate, Claire, invited me to spend a weekend in Orléans at her parents’ house. At age 20, it was all so new to be in a conversation-filled bourgeoise home filled with French-speaking family members, enjoying our apéritifs and kirs before dinner. 

Now, I can definitely comment on this ritual. Very contrary to us North Americans, apéro hour may last an hour or more in an intimate living room area where a light selection of hors d’oeuvres and drinks will be offered.

How the French DON’T drink wine

Unlike in the States, this is not a time to crack open several bottles of wine, which the guests enjoy with a hearty selection of hors d’oeuvres. From a French point of view, this would be quite taboo! 

First of all, in my experience, wine is principally served to complement a specific portion of the multi-course meal, which will unfold AFTER les apéros. Also, it would be unheard of to over-snack before a meal that your hosts had likely been preparing for most of the day. Quelle horreur!

A Memorable Dinner Experience

So, back to Orléans—Claire’s family, my dip into the world of French hospitality, food, and wine. About 10 of us were seated around a long table for dinner, and several bottles of notable Loire Valley wine were lined up along the table. The dinner began after Claire’s mother was seated and had picked up her fork. 

There were at least three kinds of forks and knives on either side of my plate, and I was gently guided to simply observe the guests and follow suit (wasn’t that sweet?). 

At one moment, I think that I spoke up and asked for more wine. M. Quidet (Claire’s father) said, “It’s actually the job of the male host of the evening to be certain that no one’s glass is empty if they still want more wine.” I found that interesting!

Discovering French Wine Regions

At one point, after the meal, I mentioned to M. Quidet that in my corner of the world (remember that this was 1974) our restaurants typically offered only two choices of wine—Bordeaux or Chablis. He smiled and said, “Let’s take a look at the wine map of France.” 

We proceeded to the coffee table, and he showed me a tiny, tiny corner of the map where they grew Chablis. “Oh my goodness,” I said. “How can that be possible?” What a different, more isolated world we lived in back then, right?

In 1990, some twenty years later, a small group of my La Bruyère fractional owners actually imported about 20 cases of wine from the Bordeaux area of France, near St. Emilion. And that is yet another story…

The Endless Experience of France

With all that said, there is so much to experience in France, from the rich tapestry of its wine culture to the vibrant local markets. 

Fractional ownership homes with International Property Shares offer a unique opportunity to return to your vacation regularly, allowing you to dive deeper into the local culture and discover something new each time. You’ll never run out of things to do or experience as you explore the beautiful regions of France, making each visit truly unforgettable.

Own a shared vacation home near Banyuls

Our fractional ownership home in Cerbere allows you to spend 6+ weeks each year and live like a local. Explore the regional wineries, soak in the coastal charm, and even take trips across the border into Spain!

“Catalonia on the Sea” is a 2 bedroom apartment located in a renovated 1920’s art-deco style mansion. Situated in an authentic French fishing village just a 5 minute walk from shops and services.

As you can see, the experience and importance of French wines are intimately woven into my memories of walks through vineyards and as a complement to so many mouth watering meals with family and friends in the south of France.

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