Saturday night, in homage to Uzès’ Truffle Festival pigs, I served a fancy pork terrine bought in the Loire Valley to friends in town to enjoy. That bite of pork could have been my last. I’m in love with pigs.
I’ve always had an attraction to pigs, namely Porky Pig, Piglet, Babe, and Miss Piggy. However, the attraction never kept me from having more than my share of pork barbecue, pork chops, ham, and bacon. Yesterday, though, I fell under the spell of a truffle-hunting pig. She was awesome.
UzèsTruffle Festival Activities
Let me set the stage …
Sunday morning, under a bright sunny sky, a brisk Mistral wind blew across the central plaza in Uzès, Place aux Herbes. Crowds of couples, families, and singles were scurrying towards the plaza’s center to join in on the Black Truffle Festival festivities.
In the square was a huge tent and dozens of little food stands, each filled with vendors selling truffled delicacies.
Merchants with truffle paraphernalia were set up to sell knives, bags, truffle shavers, and more.
There were even tiny tree starts implanted with truffles at their roots so you could take one home.
Uzes Black Truffle Hunt
A “truffle pen” filled with dirt and small trees was set up along one side of the plaza. It had been seeded with black truffles free to any man, woman, or child with a dog who could find them.
Not one dog found a truffle, but one stole the show. Nancy McGee’s 2-pound Papillon, Jewel.
Jewel was the show stopper … until the truffle-hunting pig arrived.
“Madame Cochon” rooted where others never dared to go.
She snorted and dug until every truffle was sorted out.
Indeed, Madame Cochon’s talent was due to the mutual admiration between her and her master. You might even call it Piggy Love.
Who could resist such a loveable pig?
Even the piglets-in-waiting were envious.
Uzes Black Truffle Festival Auction
Meanwhile, back at center stage, a truffle auction was starting. Truffles blessed at an earlier church service were being sold to the highest bidders to raise money for charity.
Each truffle was carefully cleaned, weighed, and sold, starting at 1000 euros per kilo.
All was supervised by the ever-present Compagnie Bachiques — a group of wine-loving men who show up at every wine event, dressed in the colors and golden coat of arms of the Duchy of Uzes. They must spread the word about wines from the region and proclaim:
“VINO NON AQUA”
Uzes Black Truffle Sales
Curious and truffle-hungry guests throughout the day mobbed vendors selling truffles by weight.
Precious truffle oil, butter, and cheese sold fast.
Those seeming to have the most fun were those who just showed up for the experience, the food, the company, and the wine.
What truffle delight did I buy? A little block of truffle butter, cheese with truffles, and a small jar of truffle pate that I’ll give away — it’s made with pork!
Oh yes … and dare I forget? Nancy and I polished off a few Truffle macaroons with a nice pot of tea before she left for her drive back to Sete.
Another fun day in the South of France!
