When Amanda Summer reached out to me while visiting Uzès, I had no idea the conversation would lead to a guest post on my blog. We met, talked, and within minutes it was clear she sees the world a little differently—through layers of history most of us pass without noticing.
An archaeologist and writer, Amanda had been intrigued by something many of us drive past without a second glance: what feels like a hidden discovery—a Picasso just outside Uzès, near a small temple-like structure by the roundabout on the road from Avignon. I asked if she would write about it. Here is her story.
A Greek Temple at the Edge of Uzès
Amanda Summer
I don’t normally expect to see a Greek temple at the edge of a field in France. But near the town of Uzès, just off a roundabout adjacent to undulating meadows and vineyards, sits a mini Parthenon. The first time it caught my eye while driving into town on the road from Avignon, I almost missed my turn.
As an archaeologist, my job is digging up old things. While I knew this structure was not ancient, still, I was intrigued: Who built it? When? And why? So I did a little more digging—but this time not into the soil.
The Château of a Thousand Columns
Turns out that this little temple, along with an archway and triple-columned monument, dates to 1816 and marks the entrance to a graveyard. The surrounding land, originally a fortress in the 13th century, was acquired by Baron Gabriel Joseph de Froment in the late 18th century.
Having traveled throughout Italy, the Baron developed a love of antiquity and transformed the estate into a Neoclassical wonderland, adding so many towers, balustrades, and colonnades that the property became known as the chateau of a thousand columns.
The Baron survived the French Revolution, and over time, continued to construct mini temples, fountains, columns, and other monuments across the five-acre property. The family remained in the castle until 1927, and the property lay abandoned for decades.
Picasso at Château de Castille
In the 1950s, the chateau was purchased by Douglas Cooper, a British art historian. Known as a “Monuments Man,” Cooper lived in the castle through the following decades, and hosted many of the celebrated artists of the time, including the guitarist Manitas de Plata, painters Ferdinand Léger, Georges Braque, Jean Cocteau, and most notably, Pablo Picasso.
While traveling in Spain, Cooper is said to have admired some of Picasso’s drawings that had been sandblasted into cement. During a visit to the chateau in the early 1960s, Picasso became enamored of the place and wanted to buy it, but Cooper refused to sell. Picasso reportedly commanded, “Give me a wall!” and worked with Norwegian artist Carl Nesjar to create five murals engraved directly into the stone.
Restoration and Preservation
Recent owners commissioned interior designer Dick Dumas to decorate the interior of the enormous 6,000-square-foot building, which includes two kitchens, multiple living spaces, bedrooms, and baths.
Many of the “folies,” as the Baron’s 25 neoclassical buildings were called, did not survive the decades, but those that remain still dot the vast estate set into the rolling French countryside. The structures located near the road at the roundabout heading into Uzès have recently been under renovation, including the Princess of Rohan’s tomb, the memorial to his son Edouard, who died at the age of 19 in the Battle of Essling, and the tomb of the Baron himself.
The project was begun in 2023 and is funded by multiple sources, including the regional Directorate for Cultural Affairs, the Pays d’Uzès Community of Communes, the State, and the Regional and Departmental Councils. The l’Uzège association also organized fundraising, making it possible to hire a heritage architect to conduct a study of the monuments for the restoration project.
The buildings sit on clay soil, so they were carefully dismantled, and a concrete slab was placed below to ensure overall stability. Once this was done, the buildings were reassembled in situ.
While many of the remaining folies lie on private property, the cemetery and its monuments are on municipal land. The project is set for completion in 2026, and there are plans for a “discovery trail” between Uzès and the town of Argilliers. Benches made of Vers Pont du Gard stone are to be installed along the route, with QR codes that will allow visitors to learn the history of the Château de Castille.
A French blogger found these old postcards of the chateau and its environs.
Maquettes show that the Baron built not only miniature versions of the temples, but of the Tower of Pisa.
One of Uzès’ Hidden Stories
The chateau has been on the market in recent years: expect to part with north of ten million euros for the privilege of living in such sumptuous surroundings and the ability to stroll through the countless porticos, towers, temples, and colonnades.
And of course, there are the Picasso murals to gaze at: they alone are worth more than the property itself.
Uzès is constantly revealing its beauty with each visit, and there are always more secrets and delights to discover in this magical place. Who knew that one of them was a castle, built by a Baron whose life’s goal was to transplant a bit of the ancient world to the countryside of the Gard. While only a few of his “folies” remain, it’s reassuring to know that a precious handful are being lovingly restored and will be accessible for the public to admire.
For more places to explore, see Barefoot Blogger’s guide to Uzès and the surrounding area:
About the Author
Amanda Summer is an archaeologist and award-winning writer whose work has appeared in The New York Times, Islands, Archaeology, Odyssey, and The Best Travel Writing. She is the author of 100 Places in Greece Every Woman Should Go (Solas Press). After earning her M.A. in Classical Archaeology, she joined an international excavation on the Greek island of Ithaka in search of the legendary palace of Odysseus. She currently works with the Iklaina Archaeological Project in Pylos, Greece, and serves as President of the Pylos Archaeology Foundation. Her work often explores how travel shapes personal transformation—particularly for women.
A special “thank you” to Alex Waugh for his help with research and images for the story.
One Response
When I was a child (ie 60 to 70 years ago😊😊), my grandfather drove us kids past this property during Summer holidays, en route from my grandmother’s summer House in Sauzet to the “pont du Gard”.
If I may say so, your article dug up old memories🤗🤗