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Inspiring Life & Travel in France

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7 Days In Dordogne: Lascaux to Brantôme

Caves, canals, and missteps describe day four of the Dordogne seven-day adventure. 

Overcast and rainy weather changed our planned route for day four of our Dordogne seven-day adventure. It’s a Good thing we are driving. Instead of Rocamadour, we headed for the painted cave at Lascaux.

The route to Lascaux from our hotel wasn’t very long, so we gave ourselves a little time before setting out. Interestingly, the curvy roads and scenery along part of the way reminded us North Carolina girls of our own Blue Ridge Mountains. Same trees, same rocks, and hills. Or so it seemed.

Before reaching Lascaux, we read we were to buy tickets at the tourist office in the nearby town of Montignac. Not so. After stopping there…and a brief visit to an art exhibit in the local church where I came close to buying these handmade items…

Dordogne seven day adventure
Art and craft exhibit in Montignac

Dordogne seven day adventure

Dordogne seven day adventure

…we went to the Lascaux Park site for tickets. Or let’s say we set off to find our way there.

Hint: If you navigate with a Garmin or other device, shut it off here. Follow the printed road signs to Lascaux. If not, you’ll spend your precious time going in circles.

Dordogne Seven Day Adventure: Lascaux II

Lascaux I is the original, authentic, painted cave found by four boys and their dog in 1940. The cave was closed in 1963 to prevent the drawings from being destroyed by human contact — mainly CO2. Lascaux II was opened to the public in 1983 as a replica of the original. Lascaux IV, a new, modern park with more exhibits, is under construction. It is supposed to open this year. Hmmm…

Photos were not allowed within the cave, but these photos may give you an idea of the park area and surroundings.

Dordogne seven day adventure

Dordogne seven day adventure
After lunch at a brasserie in Montignac, we dead-headed for Brantôme, mostly driving on a super-highway.

Yes, foie gras again. A Dordogne hamburger with thin slices of duck breast, too.

Dordogne seven day adventure
Dordogne Seven Day Adventure: Brantome

Ohh, la la! Step aside, Sarlat, I may like Brantôme best yet! What a beautiful town!

Dordogne seven day adventure

By the time we’d left Montignac, the sun was shining. The perfect setting for Brantôme. The town is straight out of a fairytale, with knights in shiny armor.

Dordogne seven day adventure

Brantôme is on an island surrounded by the River Dronne. The town’s centerpiece is the Abbey, founded by cave-dwelling monks in the eighth century.

Dordogne seven day adventure
The Abbey, the caves, and the bell tower, said to be the oldest in France, are must-sees. The carvings in the cave and the tale of the Abbey through the centuries are remarkable. It’s one of my favorite sites along this journey.

Dordogne seven day adventure
Dordogne seven day adventure

Dordogne seven day adventure

Dordogne seven day adventure

Dordogne seven day adventure

Hint: If you plan to have dinner in Brantôme, wait until 7 pm. 

Back to Sarlat

When we discovered we wouldn’t find a place to eat dinner in Brantôme after 6pm and a two-hour drive back to our hotel, we decided to go straight to the neighborhood restaurant near our hotel.

Arriving back in Marquay, the hotel manager, Joel, gave directions to the cafe only a few steps away from the village. Also, when we arrived, the restaurant was closed. We dragged our hungry selves back to the hotel, where Joel had another suggestion.

“Just five minutes down the road,” he  said, drawing a map with curved lines and “x’s.”

Back in the car, we went …in the dark. By the time we had traveled for ten minutes, we knew we had missed the turn to the restaurant. Oh well, Sarlat was five minutes away.

 “Stop at the first place that’s open,” we said, almost simultaneously.

The first place was a bar that served pizzas. It appeared to be men-only.

“Never mind,” the waiter was gorgeous.

Dordogne seven day adventure

The handsome man looked puzzled when I told him he looked like a movie star, but I couldn’t remember his name. When I told him the star was married to Penelope Cruz,  he said: “Javier Bardem.”

We all burst into laughter.

Dordogne seven day adventure
The black cloud that had gathered over our evening was lifted.  And the pizza was delicious.


Day trip from Uzes to the Cevennes

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