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Discover Gourdon, a Hidden Gem Above the Côte d’Azur

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Deborah Bine

The Barefoot Blogger

During my road trip along the Côte d’Azur, I often found myself gazing up at the hills, wondering what lay above the coastline. Little did I know I would discover Gourdon — one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France— high over Nice, out of view from below. 

A Medieval Village Steeped in History

The medieval village of Gourdon offers breathtaking panoramic views of the Côte d’Azur and the Loup Valley. This quaint village in the Alpes-Maritimes region of Provence is a treasure trove of history, culture, and natural beauty. Recognized as one of “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France” (The Most Beautiful Villages of France), Gourdon’s winding cobbled streets, charming stone houses, and historical landmarks make it a “must-visit” for travelers.

Among the landmarks that give Gourdon the designation “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France” is Église Saint-Vincent, a 12th-century Romanesque church near the village center. Its bell tower is a prominent feature looming over the village’s narrow, cobbled streets and traditional stone houses, many dating back to the Middle Ages.

 

 

The Château de Gourdon: A Historical Landmark

The Château de Gourdon was built in the 9th century to guard the surrounding valley and the village from Saracen invaders. Over the centuries, the château was expanded and modified, taking on the grandeur of a Provençal noble estate while retaining much of its medieval architecture. The château has long been a symbol of Gourdon’s historical importance and its cultural significance.

Notable Château’s Owners Through the Years

The story of the Château de Gourdon is intertwined with the histories of its owners, who each left their mark on the estate.

Medieval Beginnings: The early owners of Château de Gourdon were likely local lords who governed the surrounding lands and held influence in the region. As time passed, the château evolved from a fortress into a residence for noble families, complete with French gardens designed by the legendary landscape architect André Le Nôtre, who is most famous for his work at the Palace of Versailles.

Jean-Paul II of Lombard: One of the château’s notable owners during the late 18th century was a captain in the Royal Lorraine Cavalry Regiment, reflecting the château’s connection to French aristocracy and military history. Jean-Paul II of Lombard became Mayor of Gourdon in 1809. When he passed away in 1820 in Grasse, he left the château to his nephew, the Marquis de Villeneuve-Bargemon, whose family maintained ownership for some time.


The American Heiress: Mae Norris
: The château’s most flamboyant chapter began in the early 20th century with the arrival of Mae Norris, an American woman who purchased the estate in 1918. Norris was part of a wave of wealthy Americans fascinated with European culture and history during this period. She poured her fortune into restoring the Château de Gourdon to its former glory, amassing a collection of medieval and Renaissance art, furniture, and antiques. Norris’ passion for the château was legendary, and she eventually opened it as a museum in 1938, allowing the public to experience its grandeur. Unfortunately, her lavish spending on the restoration eventually ruined her financially. Despite going bankrupt, she is remembered for reviving the château and preserving its historical significance. (If a reader has more information on Mae Norris, please pass it on!)

 

Laurent Negro:  In 1997, the owner of Château de Gourdon was Laurent Negro, son of a prominent French entrepreneur. Negro was flamboyant and strong-willed, particularly during his time as owner of the Château de Gourdon. He transformed the château into the Château Gourdon Musée des Arts Décoratifs et de L’Art Moderne, one of the largest and most impressive museums of Art Deco, Art Nouveau, and Modernist art, furniture, and sculpture in France at that time. The museum attracted thousands of visitors annually, boosting local tourism and bringing attention to the cultural significance of the château. In 2010, Negro’s reputation took a turn when he had a dispute with local planning officials over a tree-planting project. Negro threatened to close the estate and auction off its valuable Art Deco collection,  depriving local businesses of tourist revenue. He followed through on this threat, selling over 800 pieces, including works by Eileen Gray and Jean Dunand, in a highly publicized Christie’s auction in Paris in 2011. While the sale was financially successful — 42.387 million euros— the château was left without its cultural draw.

In 2015, the château was sold to a private buyer.

 

Discover Gourdon and the Gorges du Loup: The Perfect Provence Adventure

Whether exploring the medieval village or venturing into the nearby Gorges du Loup, the area is perfect for travelers looking for adventure, relaxation, and culture. Just a short drive from Gourdon lies the magnificent Gorges du Loup, a spectacular river canyon that winds through the Alpes-Maritimes.

Hiking and Cycling—The Gorges du Loup region is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts, with trails ranging from leisurely strolls to challenging treks.

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Canyoning: For those seeking an adrenaline rush, canyoning is one of the most thrilling activities in the Gorges du Loup. Routes range from waterfalls to natural pools. Local guides offer several tours, making this activity accessible to both beginners and experienced adventurers.

Swimming:  Natural pools along the Loup River provide a refreshing escape from a day of exploring the villages and trails nearby.

Exploring: The Gorges du Loup region is dotted with charming villages, each offering a unique taste of Provençal life. Check out Tourrettes-sur-Loup, famous for its violet production, and Bar-sur-Loup, in the heart of the Loup Valley, known for its beautiful buildings and slower pace of life.

Taste the Flavors of Provence

No visit to the region would be complete without indulging in the local cuisine. When in the Gorges du Loup area, look for local olives, cheese, honey, and wine. Markets and shops offer plenty of opportunities to sample these Provençal specialties. Many small villages around the gorge have cozy cafes where you can enjoy a traditional Provençal meal while enjoying the scenery.

Getting to the Gorges du Loup and Gourdon

The Gorges du Loup is located between Grasse and Vence, just a 20-minute drive from the beaches of Villeneuve-Loubet and Cagnes-sur-Mer. The drive through the gorges is as stunning as the destination itself.

 

Follow the Road Trip

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