Slow Travel in France: On the Snail Trail with Escargot and Bulots

Discover the art of slow travel in France — from eating escargot in France to savoring life at a snail’s pace.

Certain things about France never cease to surprise me. Take snails, for example. On a recent birthday road trip with my dear friend and fellow octogenarian, Patricia Sands, I’ve come across more of these slow-moving crustaceans than ever before. From escargots in the Alpilles to bulots on the Riviera, it seems I’m on a snail trail across France.

Escargot: A French Icon

Escargot, the land snail, is probably the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of “unusual” things the French eat. In reality, escargots, served in their shells, bubbling in garlic and parsley butter, are as much a part of French culinary identity as baguettes or champagne. What makes them remarkable is their staying power.

While outsiders might think of eating escargot in France as old-fashioned, they’ve never left the table. In fact, today they’re popping up in new ways: not just in traditional bistros, but even at food trucks and city markets. Some chefs are reimagining escargot — pairing them with truffle or Espelette pepper, or tucking them into brioche that has been hollowed and filled with snails and garlic-parsley butter.

Fun fact: Eating escargot in France typically means “Escargots à la Bourguignonne,” baked with garlic, parsley, and butter. The dish rose to fame in 1814, when legendary chef Antonin Carême served them in Dijon to Tsar Alexander I of Russia. The delicacy quickly became fashionable in Paris, and two centuries later, it still appears on menus across France.

Escargot in Provence:

In Provence, escargot made its first appearance on our road trip at the famous Le Bistrot du Paradou, an “institution” in the Alpilles near Les Baux. Paradou has a reputation that stretches far and wide. Locals, second-home owners, and travelers from all over come here for its food and “down-home” atmosphere.

There’s no menu to choose from, only a daily set menu that changes with the season. It could be roast Bresse chicken, cassoulet, or aioli. On the day Patricia and I arrived, it was escargots in garlic butter — simple, classic — and perfect.

Bulots: The Unsung Heroes of French Seafood

If escargots are the land stars, bulots are their sea cousins. These knobby sea snails don’t win beauty contests, but they’re loved along the French coast. Boiled, chilled, and served with garlicky aioli or simple mayonnaise, they are well worth the effort to pull the meat from the spiralled shells.

During our stay in Antibes, Patricia and I found bulots piled high in fishmonger baskets and on cafe platters. Most notable was when we joined locals who devoured dozens of bulots along with white fish and steamed vegetables, at a favorite neighborhood restaurant, Le Bistrot du Coin. Fridays and Saturdays, patrons plan in advance for the cafe’s aioli. And don’t forget the Corsican cocktail and beer. What a treat!

Fun Fact:
Bulots — France’s favorite sea snails — aren’t just a northern specialty anymore. Once found mostly in Normandy and Brittany, they’ve become a Friday tradition in the South, especially as part of the grand aioli. Cooked just right (never too long), they’re tender, briny, and now a quiet staple from Paris to Provence.

Eating My Way To Eighty

So why am I eating escargot in France more than ever? Maybe it’s because this journey is a celebration — of friendship, of travel, of the sheer joy of savoring France slowly — one dish at a time. Or maybe it’s because escargot and bulots, each in their own way, remind me why I fell in love with this country: the ability to honor tradition while making it an integral part of the present.

Curious About Slow Travel Through France?

From Paris to the Riviera, join me and Patricia on a slow travel journey through France, where escargot, bulots, and friendship make every stop worth savoring.

Stay tuned …

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