Visiting Narbonne always brings back memories of my high school Latin class and our teacher, Ms. Clegg.
I struggled with Latin. (Sound familiar? French?) I didn’t study nearly enough, and dreaded showing up each day. Thankfully, Ms. Clegg let me slide through the class with a passing grade. She had to have known that I was leaning on a translated copy of Commentaries on the Gallic War to get through homework, but she passed me anyway. Maybe now I understand why.
Maybe she saw something I didn’t—that the girl in the front row wasn’t just learning Latin, but soaking up the stories of ancient Rome and Julius Caesar’s campaigns in Gaul. I was hooked on the drama of Roman life and their conquest of France, even if I couldn’t conjugate a verb.
All these years later, it’s clear those tales left a mark. Living in France, I sometimes wonder: Maybe it wasn’t fate that led me to Uzès—maybe it was Ms. Clegg.
Narbonne (Narbo Martius 27 BC) – The First Roman Colony in Gaul
Who would have guessed I’d end up living in what was once Roman Gaul—and visiting Narbonne, its first capital, not once but four times?
The first time, I toured Narbonne as a guest aboard the Athos du Midi, a luxury hotel barge on the Canal du Midi. Our guide shared the city’s Roman history and pointed out the remarkable relics that still stand today. On my second visit, I began to understand just how deep the Roman story goes.
The Roman Road – Via Domitia
Like most things the early Romans did right, they chose Narbonne as the capital of their colony in France. Narbonne had a natural harbor and, at that time, direct access to the Mediterranean Sea. The city’s proximity to the Pyrenees Mountains and the Iberian Peninsula made it a crucial point along the land routes connecting Italy to Spain.
The Romans capitalized on Narbonne’s prime location, making it the hub of an extensive network of roads throughout the empire. The Via Domitia, the first Roman road in Gaul, originated in Narbonne, facilitating trade, communication, and the movement of Roman troops throughout the empire.
The Roman Seaport – Portus Narbo
Along with an impressive land route, Narbonne was a seaport (“Portus Narbo) — the second-largest port in the Western Roman Empire, following Rome. Discovering the exact location of the original port is an ongoing project. Time and the elements have transformed the seascape.
NW winds made this access to the ancient port of Narbo rather tricky. However, no shipwrecks have been found so far in that area.
Roman Artifacts in Narbonne
Via Domitia: Evidence of the ancient Roman road, Via Domitia, is on display for all visitors to Narbonne’s city center.
After the Romans
Between Roman times and the 12th century, Narbonne transitioned from a Roman colony to a stronghold for the Visigoths and a Frankish possession. During the 12th and 13th centuries, Narbonne served as the capital of the Viscounty of Narbonne, a feudal territory under the control of local rulers. It was a rich cultural and intellectual center, as well as a significant hub of religious activity, with a powerful bishopric. Stately Gothic structures were built throughout the town.
One impressive example of Gothic architecture in Narbonne is the Cathedral of Saint-Just and Saint-Pasteur. It features beautiful stained glass windows, intricate stone carvings, and grand rose windows.
The Albigensian Crusade
As the political center of southern France during the 13th century, Narbonne was known for its political tolerance. The region had a history of following doctrines and practices that the Catholic Church considered heretical. Specific segments of the population in Narbonne, including the nobility, urban bourgeoisie, and some clergy members, were receptive to the Cathar message.
Narbonne’s role in the Albigensian Crusades significantly influenced the intellectual and religious landscape of the region. Narbonne’s fall to the Crusades in 1229 weakened its social, political, and cultural fabric. When the Crusades ended, the area came under the control of the Kingdom of France, and Narbonne’s influence was upended.
“Must Sees” in Narbonne
- The Via Domitia
- The Robine Canal (city side)
- The Saint-Just-et-Saint-Pasteur Cathedral
- The Palace of the Archbishops
- Les Halles
- Market days in Narbonne: weekly market: Sunday; seasonal demand: Tuesday & Thursday & Saturday & Monday
Stay tuned for more on the Cathars in Narbonne.
6 Responses
Like you, we were so intrigued by all the Roman artifacts we found in the south of France, and this article makes it perfectly clear how it all began in Narbonne. We completed our canal boat rental in this city and loved exploring all the sites you listed above! And the map of how the landscape has changed was so informative!
I can’t wait to see your photos! And I’d love to know more about the canal boat rental. Sounds like so much fun. I’m so happy you like the new site. It’s going to be a fun place to play! See you soon!
Any American expats living in Narbonne?how affordable is Narbonne to retire.Thanks
Narbonne is a city of over 50,000 residents, mostly French. While there are Americans who live there, the total population of foreign born in Narboone is small — less than 10%. I have visited in Narbonne several times and plan to return for New Year’s Day for a special dinner (check out the blogpostIndulge In A French Food Feast Fit For King Louis: Les Grands Buffets in Narbonne.) It’s a beautiful city and I understand it is more affordable than Uzès. Close to the sea, too!
Great article..would like to learn more about the Cathurs. I arrive in less than a month in Sth France. So can’t wait to learn more, now and when I’m there…I’ll be in Foix for a while, so hopefully can get close to some historic sights. Thanks Deborah
I’ll be back in France around the time you’re there. Stop by Uzès if you can. I have yet to visit Foix but I’ve been all around it. There’s a French immersion school there lots of friends have atttended. Maybe this is the year I’ll make it to Foix to find out more about the Cathars. Enjoy your visit. Let me know what you find.