Side trips from Uzes are now behind us. It’s time for the Golden Girls to hit the super highway and head for the Mediterranean side of France.
The Mediterranean Side of France: Sete
The Venice of France
I couldn’t wait to show off Sete to my friends from North Carolina. After a week’s stay last year, I knew my beach-loving travel companions would like the place. The city is attractive because of the canals, architecture, and fabulous seafood, and the beaches outside the city are magnificent. We envisioned at least one full day in the sun, being pampered by handsome waiters as we sunned at a private beach club.
Only one problem. Our days in Sete turned out to be cold and rainy.
Oh well, not to be disappointed because of the weather, we found plenty to do exploring Sete’s indoor market and nearby towns along the Mediterranean.
The Mediterranean Side of France: Bezier
Bezier is one of the oldest cities in France, tracing back to 535 BC. A few kilometers from the coast, Beziers was a Roman stronghold along the trade route from Provence to the Iberian Peninsula. It was the scene of a bloody massacre in the 13th century when Cathars, considered a heretic group by Catholics, were murdered — along with all other residents of the town– in a two-hour battle. The leader of the crusade, when asked “how the warriors could tell Cathars from Catholics,” reportedly answered: “Caedite eos. Novit enim Dominus qui sunt eius” or “Kill them all and let God sort them out.”
Today, Beziers is well known for the “Feria,” a 5-day bullfighting festival that annually draws over a million spectators to the town’s ancient arena. Gothic architecture and stately English gardens also lure visitors to return to the past.
The Mediterranean side of France: Bouziques
Bouzigues, a beachside town beside the L’Etang de Thau, is well known for its fresh seafood– especially oysters.
You can see miles of oyster beds stretching into the Mediterranean from the narrow street through Bouzigues.
Oysters in L’Etang de Thau are grown on posts explicitly designed to maximize the crop yield.
Another attraction in Bouziques is the many seaside restaurants. On a rainy day, however, most were closed for afternoon business.
The Mediterranean Side of France: Getting There
Mustang Sally is the red 1996 Ford Mustang I’ve been blessed to drive in France. She belongs to my dear friend, Geoffrey, who has been the star character in many of my blog posts.
When I first arrived to set up my new life in France, Geoffrey made an offer I couldn’t refuse. We arrived at a lease agreement for the red car with black racing stripes. Now Mustang Sally is living in the underground car park near my apartment. She’s raring to go at a moment’s notice.
The trip down to Sete was no exception. Packed to the brim with suitcases, bags, and hats, Sally proudly provided more than transportation down the super highway and scenic roads for my Carolina guests; she was our “touch of class.” I mean, how else would passers-by know The Golden Girls were around? She stood as a beacon wherever we landed.
She hit the 120 KPH speed limit with no hesitation along the highways. It was at the many toll booths along the way that she showed her one malady. The driver-side window is stuck closed.
After one or two stops, my travel companions and I had the tollbooth routine down flat. Sally would roll up to the gate while I was unbuckling my seatbelt; the front seat passenger would ready the change for the toll; I’d stretch as far as my arms and legs would reach to insert a ticket into the machine to add up the fare; I’d feed the fare into the meter; slam the door; buckle the seatbelt; and we’d speed off before the car behind us could blow its horn in total frustration.
This scenario repeated for most of the two-hour drive to Sete. We went the quickest route rather than drive on the back roads. Likewise, the stops at Beziers and Bouziques were easy turn-offs from the superhighway.
The Mediterranean Side of France: Where to Stay in Sete
One of my favorite things about visiting Sete was the Airbnb apartment. Right in the center of town, facing the central canal, the location would please my friends, I was confident. Yes, as I suspected, they were thrilled with the apartment with two private bedrooms and a fantastic view. They clicked immediately with our host, Nancy, and soon, we felt at home.
The Mediterranean Side of France: What to Eat in Sete
There’s only one good answer for what to eat in Sete: seafood! One of the Mediterranean’s most “productive” fishing areas, the town is mainly well known for oysters, sardines, and tuna. Restaurants line the streets along the harbor and seem to serve similar dishes.
Grabbing a plate of raw oysters at the city market and a glass of wine or beer was a treat I was determined to give myself.
The idea of “raw” didn’t go so well with the other Golden Girls, but they did taste “tielle,” a local delicacy– octopus pie.
Another specialty from Sete is fish soup. It is a tomato-based, heavy fish broth served in bowls like chowder.
The best part of the soup is the croutons that float on top. But before you set the croutons off to sail, you smother the crunchy bits of toast with garlicky aioli and cover them with flaky Parmesan cheese.
Fish soup from Sete can be purchased online from sites like Bien Manger
Helpful Hint: Wherever You Go
Remember where you park when driving in an unfamiliar place, especially if you don’t know the language. It’s easy to get lost if you’re as absent-minded as I am! To ensure you get back to the right place, take pictures of your parking spot and direction signs along the way.
Next stop: Port Vendres and Collioure
