The Real Cost of Retiring in France: What I Learned the Hard Way

Life in France. A Dream and a Plan

Many people dream of living in France, and I was no different. More than a decade ago, I made that dream a reality—but without a plan. If you’ve followed the Barefoot Blogger, you know I moved on a whim, figuring things out along the way. That meant learning the real cost of retiring in France —sometimes the hard way.

While France has exceeded my wildest imagination, I wish I had known more about the real cost of retiring here, beyond the basics of food, housing, and healthcare. Financial considerations play a huge role in managing your expectations — whether you stay long-term… or not. Over the years, I’ve seen friends fall in love with France only to leave because they weren’t prepared for the unexpected expenses, tax implications, and legal differences that come with living abroad.

To help you plan better than I did, here’s what I’ve learned about the real cost of retiring in France—and what you should consider before making the move.

(Please note that the prices and cost estimates shared in this post are based on my personal experience and research at the time of writing. Actual costs may vary depending on location, season, and changing economic conditions.)

Understanding “Residency” vs. “Domicile:” Why It Matters

When moving to France, one of the most overlooked financial factors is understanding the difference between being a “resident” and “domiciled.” A resident of France is someone who lives in the country for most of the year and may be subject to French tax laws. Domiciled means that France is your permanent home, influencing tax obligations and legal status. (Neither affects your nationality. As a U.S. citizen, for example, you remain a U.S. citizen unless you go through the formal process of acquiring French citizenship.)

What It Means to Be a “Resident” in France

The French government considers you a tax resident if you spend more than 183 days per year in France. This means:

• You may need to file taxes in France but this doesn’t automatically mean your worldwide assets are taxable in France.
• If you are still economically tied to another country (such as the U.S.), you may retain tax obligations there as well.

What It Means to Be “Domiciled” in France

Domicile is different from residency. It means France is your permanent home and primary tax base. It is the center of your economic interests—where you earn income, own property, or conduct business.

• If you’re domiciled in France, French inheritance laws apply—meaning part of your estate may automatically go to heirs, even if your will states otherwise.
• Domicile status can also trigger French taxation on worldwide assets, not just what you own in France

Bottom line? Before making the big move, talk to a tax expert who understands U.S.-France agreements. If you have significant assets, heirs, or financial interests outside France, this distinction is critical.

Housing Costs in France: Renting vs. Buying

Like anywhere, the cost of living in France depends on location. Paris and the Riviera come with premium prices, while smaller towns and rural areas offer affordable alternatives.

Tip: Work with a reputable realtor who understands expats’ needs. Guidance before making a commitment is essential.

Renting in France

Many retirees rent before buying to get a feel for the area. Here’s what to expect:

• Small towns & rural areas: €600–€1,200 per month for a two-bedroom home.
• Mid-sized cities (Montpellier, Bordeaux, Aix-en-Provence, etc.): €1,200–€2,000 per month.
• Paris & the Riviera: €2,500+ per month.

Things to keep in mind:

• French landlords often require several months’ rent up front and proof of income.
• Unfurnished means UNFURNISHED—no kitchen appliances, light fixtures, or closets.
• Expect to pay €100–€300 monthly for utilities (heating, electricity, water).

Buying Property in France

Buying can be more affordable than in the U.S., but ongoing costs must be factored in.

• Smaller towns & rural areas: €150,000–€300,000.
• Mid-sized cities: €250,000–€600,000.
• Paris & the Riviera: €600,000+ for a modest apartment.

Hidden costs:

• Rural homes may be cheap upfront, but maintenance is costly. A 200-year-old farmhouse with thick stone walls? Sounds romantic, but heating it in the winter is another story (€200–€400 per month).
• French property taxes vary by region. Expect anywhere from €500–€3,000 annually
• The Paris and Riviera markets are expensive. Think €600,000+

The True Cost of Food and Dining in France

A major perk of living in France is the abundance of reasonably priced fresh, seasonal food. Shopping at local markets and eating with the seasons makes high-quality produce, cheeses, meats, and wine more affordable than in the U.S. My monthly grocery bill typically falls between €250 and €400, and I eat very well.

Dining out is also more affordable than many expect, especially when choosing prix fixe menus at neighborhood bistros. A typical café lunch with wine costs around €15 to €25, while dinner at a higher-end restaurant runs €30 to €50 per person. Fine dining is always an option, but great food doesn’t have to come with a high price tag in France.

Healthcare in France: How Much Will You Pay?

Healthcare is another area where U.S. retirees are often pleasantly surprised. After living in France for three months, you can apply for PUMa (Protection Universelle Maladie), the national healthcare system. Once enrolled, the system covers 70% of doctors’ visits and hospital stays. Private insurance (called a mutuelle) is available to cover the rest.

Even before qualifying for PUMa, private health insurance is far more affordable than in the U.S., ranging from €150 to €300 per month depending on coverage. Doctor visits are inexpensive—around €25 per visit—and prescriptions are also very affordable. The French healthcare system is consistently ranked among the best in the world, and it’s a significant financial advantage for retirees.

Transportation Costs: Do You Need a Car in France?

Transportation costs will depend largely on where you live. In major cities, public transportation is excellent and affordable, with metro and bus passes costing €70 to €90 per month. The TGV high-speed train makes it easy to travel across the country, with tickets ranging from €20 to €100 per trip depending on distance and timing.

If you live in the countryside, a car is necessary. Cars in France generally have lower sticker prices than in the U.S., mainly because smaller, fuel-efficient models are more common. (Prices vary by model, region, and market conditions.) Car ownership includes expenses like insurance (€100–€200 per month), fuel (€1.80 per liter), and maintenance. France’s highway tolls can also add up if you drive long distances frequently.

Unexpected Expenses: What Retirees Often Overlook

Even with careful planning, unexpected costs are part of life in France. Exchange rate fluctuations can affect your budget if you rely on U.S. dollars; home repairs, visa renewals, and administrative fees can add up.

I’ve also learned that French social life comes with hidden costs—from hosting apéros to bringing gifts when invited to someone’s home, small expenses add up over time. These aren’t deal-breakers but worth noting when planning your finances.

Rural vs. City Living: Which Offers the Best Value?

Affordability is often a deciding factor for those debating between rural and city life. The countryside offers lower housing costs, quieter surroundings, and a slower pace of life, but transportation and access to services can be challenging. Mid-sized cities strike a good balance with reasonable housing prices and better healthcare and transportation access. Paris and the Riviera are expensive, but they offer world-class amenities and eliminate the need for car ownership.

The best choice depends on your lifestyle—do you want the convenience of city life or the tranquility of the countryside?

Is Retiring in France Affordable? A Final Thought

Retiring in France can be financially feasible and incredibly rewarding, but it’s not a decision to make lightly. Understanding residency vs. domicile, planning for housing and healthcare costs, and budgeting for unexpected expenses are key to making the move a success. For me, the rewards of life in France far outweigh the challenges, but having a realistic financial plan is the best way to guarantee your sense of security in the future.

Are you thinking about retiring in France? I’d love to hear your thoughts and questions. Please leave a comment below.