Honfleur Normandy’s picturesque harbor has inspired artists for centuries, and today it remains one of the region’s most popular destinations. With its narrow streets, timber-framed buildings, and waterfront cafés, it was one of the places Patricia and I had talked about long before we set out on our five-week, 5,000-kilometer road trip through France.
Like so many travelers, we’d seen the photographs, admired the paintings, and imagined finally standing beside Honfleur’s famous harbor. Maybe that’s why our first impression came as such a surprise.
Where Was the Magic?
Neither of us fell in love with it.
I don’t say that lightly.
We arrived in Honfleur on a cold, rainy, windy afternoon. The harbor was nearly empty of boats. The famous waterfront, which I’d seen in countless photographs, looked almost entirely gray beneath the heavy Norman sky. In fact, I remember wondering if the buildings were due for a fresh coat of paint.
Later, I discovered they weren’t painted at all. Many of the buildings surrounding the Vieux Bassin are covered in traditional Norman slate, which naturally takes on soft gray and blue-gray tones, especially under cloudy skies. That explained the grayness. It didn’t change our first impression.
Travel is funny that way. Expectations, the weather, the season—even your mood—can shape the way a place feels. Sometimes you arrive somewhere and immediately understand what everyone has been talking about. Sometimes you don’t.
For Patricia and me, that magical moment never quite arrived.
Looking Beyond the Harbor
That doesn’t mean Honfleur isn’t worth visiting.
Once we stopped looking for the postcard, we began appreciating Honfleur for what it really was rather than what we’d imagined. The narrow cobbled streets, half-timbered houses, and slate-covered façades spoke of a working Norman port with centuries of maritime history.
The Church That Changed My Mind
The highlight of our visit was undoubtedly Sainte-Catherine Church.
Built in the 15th century by local shipwrights rather than traditional cathedral builders, Sainte-Catherine Church is constructed almost entirely of wood. Looking up, the enormous vaulted ceiling resembles the upside-down hull of a ship—a fitting tribute to Honfleur’s long relationship with the sea. It is one of the most unusual and memorable churches I have visited anywhere in France.
A Warm Welcome
Our hotel also became one of the bright spots of our stay. Located in the heart of the old town, it was exactly the kind of historic inn we enjoy discovering.
Reaching our rooms meant climbing narrow staircases and winding hallways, reminders that modern conveniences were never part of the original design. Downstairs, the restaurant was warm and welcoming, the food was excellent, and our hosts couldn’t have been more gracious
Would I Go Back?
Absolutely. I’d like to see Honfleur on a warm summer afternoon, when sailboats fill the harbor and café terraces spill onto the quays. Perhaps then I’ll understand why it has inspired artists and travelers for centuries.
Until then, it isn’t really about not loving Honfleur. It’s about arriving with high expectations, finding something different, and leaving with a deeper appreciation.
About Epic & 80
Epic & 80 is a five-week, 5,000-kilometer road trip across France shared by two lifelong friends who turned 80 this year—Canadian bestselling author Patricia Sands and Barefoot Blogger Deborah Bine.
Together, we’re exploring France one destination at a time, sharing honest impressions, local history, memorable meals, and the unexpected discoveries that make slow travel so rewarding.
If you enjoy novels set in France, be sure to discover Patricia’s bestselling Love in Provence series and her latest novel, The French Effect. Her books celebrate the France we both love exploring and may inspire your own journey.
5 Responses
Rely enjoyed how the Honfleur stop epitomozed how often we set ourselves up to see a city a certain way. So glad you have the gift to let preconceptions go and find other wonderful enjoyment. You always create a curiosity for the reader to go there and discover their OWN
favorite things! And you do it without needing photos! Now I want to visit Honfleur, a place I only fleetingly saw ONCE for the birthday party of a friend!
Debbie, Judy and I visited Honfluer about 39 years ago after reading about it in the travel section of the Raleigh newspaper. Our plan was to go from Paris by train and bus, but we missed the bus connection and rented a car. Then we dropped another stranded passenger at Deuville which made us quite late getting to Honfluer. Our plan had been to head back to Paris that evening. Instead we at a wonderful dinner of mussels (first time) alongstide the harbor and then spent the night at the Monet Motel in town. We loved it and remember the experience fondly.
Honfleur, and St Malo, are high on our list to visit. I’ve been reading so much about them… and such an easy trip from Paris. Thank you for this!
So well said, Deb. Our initial disappointment changed as we explored the town and discovered so much more than the harbour.
Having been there in January as well as July, I agree that sunshine makes a difference in my appreciation for Honfleur. In sunny cold January we had a cozy lunch of moules et frites alongside the harbor and strolled around town with a bundled baby. In July we had a memorable walkabout, looking for proper hats and caramels, and a dinner that I think must have been at your Entre Terre et Mer. A stay at the lovely Les Maisons de Lea with a view on that church may make another visit worth your while, though Honfleur’s at the other end of France from your stomping grounds.