What happened to the road?
That was my first question when I returned to Sanary-sur-Mer, the Mediterranean fishing port I’d discovered years ago while exploring the Mediterranean coast near Antibes with friends from Uzès.
What had happened to the road that cut between the town’s beautiful plaza and the harbor?
The colorful fishing boats were there. Hôtel de la Tour was there. So were the waterfront restaurants and cafés. But the traffic that once separated the square from the harbor had disappeared, replaced by a wide-open pedestrian space that connected the heart of town directly to the water. Sanary-sur-Mer had reclaimed its waterfront.
In 2021, the town made the harbor pedestrian-only year-round and completed further improvements to the quays in 2024. And, I learned, the changes were more than cosmetic. They changed how people experience the town, bringing cafés, market streets, and fishing boats together for all to enjoy, without a stream of vehicles passing between them.
The transformation was impressive and a reminder of what thoughtful preservation can accomplish in a historic town.
A Harbor That Still Belongs to Its Boats
Unlike some Mediterranean resorts where pleasure yachts dominate the waterfront, Sanary-sur-Mer retains a strong connection to its fishing heritage. Traditional wooden boats called pointus, painted in bright colors, line the quay. Their pointed bows and distinctive shapes are part of the town’s identity.
The harbor is also a place where children learn to sail. Under instructor supervision, small boats move across the water while families and visitors gather along the waterfront.
Just beyond the harbor, the shoreline offers another perspective on Sanary, with swimmers, sailboats, and the Mediterranean extending toward the horizon. It’s an appealing combination: a working maritime tradition, an active town center, and the pleasures of the Côte d’Azur without losing the character of a small port.
I’d actually been to Sanary twice before, once with my friends from Uzès, then on a return visit with my friend Heidi during our hilltop tour of the Côte d’Azur. I had always wanted to spend more time here. A ten-day break during the Epic & 80 road trip, while Patricia Sands fulfilled her commitment to a ladies’ tour, gave me the chance. I’d intended to stay at the
Hôtel de la Tour, in the center of the town, sits near the business area, restaurants, and shops. Unfortunately, there was no nearby elevator, an amenity I’m growing to appreciate more and more. Instead, I found an apartment with parking, near the harbor with a large balcony overlooking the sea.
It was, indeed, an excellent alternative. Every morning, sea birds and sailboats moved across the bay, greeting me. The ever-changing scene often included swimmers from the nearby rocky beach. The balcony became one of my favorite places — perhaps as interesting as being on the harbor itself.
Markets, Restaurants, and Life Around the Harbor
Sanary’s waterfront restaurants are a key part of its appeal, especially for anyone who enjoys Mediterranean seafood. Mussels appeared on my table more than once, and several meals became opportunities to get to know the restaurant owners.
The Hôtel de la Tour remained on my list, even if I couldn’t stay there. A beautifully presented lunch in its restaurant finally fulfilled part of the promise I’d made to myself on an earlier visit.
The town’s appeal isn’t confined to its restaurants. On a Saturday, wedding guests coming and going added to the activity. Nearby, a children’s park and the sailing school reinforced the impression that Sanary isn’t simply a destination arranged for tourists. Families live here, and the harbor is part of their daily life.
Then there’s the market.
A Barefoot Blogger follower, and now friend, living in Sanary offered to introduce me to the market and some of her friends. It was a welcome opportunity to see the town through the eyes of someone who lives there.
Sanary’s Wednesday market won the title of France’s most beautiful market in a national competition in 2018. It’s an enormous affair, with stalls offering everything from regional foods to clothing and household goods.
Having visited markets throughout France, Sanary’s is among the most impressive I’ve visited. Its size and the variety of items for sale were remarkable. And its setting, with the Mediterranean just steps away, is almost indescribably good.
A Different View From Above
Above Sanary stands the Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Pitié, reached by the Montée des Oratoires, a hillside path marked by religious shrines and monuments.
I made the climb despite having rejected a hotel without an elevator. Some hills are worth climbing. This one offered a different perspective on the town, both geographically and historically. Along the route, religious images and inscriptions invite visitors to pause and reflect.
The chapel dates to the sixteenth century, when Sanary was known as Saint-Nazaire. Its position overlooking the Mediterranean provides a magnificent view of the harbor and coastline. But the view wasn’t the most surprising part of the visit.
The chapel held another surprise: a curious history involving the religious men who once lived there. I had no idea what I’d uncover, but it was enough to send me looking for answers.
That’s a story I’ll return to another day.
Sanary’s Unexpected Past
Another piece of history I discovered in Sanary, and want to explore, is connected to the Hôtel de la Tour.
During the 1930s, Sanary became a refuge for German-speaking writers and intellectuals fleeing Nazi persecution. Some of Europe’s most prominent literary figures spent time in this small Mediterranean town, and the hotel was associated with that extraordinary period.
It’s hard to imagine that history while watching fishing boats in the harbor or enjoying lunch on the waterfront. Yet that’s part of what makes Sanary more interesting than its appearance suggests.
Those are stories for another day.
For now, Sanary-sur-Mer has earned its place as my favorite spot on the Côte d’Azur. And once again, a longer visit has given me something more to investigate.
Hope you’ll join me next time as more stories unfold.
Just curious.
One Response
I so enjoyed reading this wonderful,fun post, where you capture the beauty and charming spirit of Sanary Sur Mer, through your lovely photos and descriptions! Merci beaucoup mon amie.