If you want to travel in France and don’t care where you go, just put your finger on a spot on the map. Then go there.
Sete: A French Sea Town Adventure
That’s how I decided to take my French beach holiday in Sete (pronounced “set”).
A little bit Venice, a little bit Riviera
Sete is a town of approximately 40,000 people who primarily earn their livelihood from the sea. During his reign, Louis XIV was instrumental in establishing Sete as a prosperous shipping center. He understood the value of a seaport on the Mediterranean that could bring in the goods and valuables he desired to satisfy his lavish tastes.
It was not until years later that Italian immigrants helped turn the city into a fishing Mecca. Sete is now France’s biggest fishing port on the Mediterranean and provides the world’s largest tonnage of tuna, sardines, herring, and anchovies. In the inland waters, oyster and mussel farms are abundant and thriving.
Connoisseurs say that oysters from Sete are the best anywhere.
The early name for Sete was Cette (Cettoise), which means “whale”. The name of the city was changed to Sete in 1929. The name was given by sailors who, when passing the undeveloped island, thought it looked like a giant whale
Known as the “Venice of France,” Sete has 24 bridges crossing the city to carry people and vehicles from one station to another. If you miss the last bridge, you run into the sea wall that separates the town from the Mediterranean.
Beyond the seawall are rocky cliffs where sunbathers can stretch out if they don’t want to head down the road to the miles of sandy beaches.
Every day markets
An indoor city market in Sete is open 6 days a week, and a large outdoor market is open on Wednesdays. Now, I’ve been to both, which are pretty different.
The indoor market is a place for social meetings. Everyone in town comes to do their food shopping and to meet their friends and neighbors. For the older generations, it’s a place to meet and enjoy a glass of wine, beer, and oysters… in the morning.
The indoor market in Sรจte, renowned for its fish, produce, and bustling atmosphere, is a haven for food enthusiasts. Located in the heart of town, it offers a large selection of meat products and, most notably, an impressive array of fish and shellfish. The scent of the seafood mingles with the aroma of fresh herbs and spices, creating an ambiance that draws visitors in. Many stands offer samples of tapas spreads, cheeses, and flavorful sausages for visitors wishing a taste.
In contrast, the outdoor market, also held on Wednesdays, is a profusion of sounds, smells, and diverse merchandise. The energy is palpable as locals and tourists meander through the stalls, engaging with vendors. The outdoor market includes clothing and shoe vendors, but the heart of the experience remains the tastes and smells of the Mediterranean culinary favorites.
Stalls with hot cauldrons of paella are alongside vendors selling onions, peppers, garlic, and sausages. Other stands offer couscous dishes, reflecting the diverse cultural influences that make up Sรจte’s population.
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Buildings and architecture
The center of Sete is filled with ornate buildings adorned with carvings and pillars that testify to the city’s early wealth. Many downtown apartments were built from majestic homes bordering the canals.
Is it any wonder I find Sete such a fantastic place for a French holiday?