Visitors to France who love medieval castles, Renaissance festivals, dragons, and gargoyles must run — not walk — to Carcassonne. The fortified city looks like something built for a movie set — except this one is real.
A Fortress Since Ancient Times
Since the pre-Roman period, a fortified settlement has existed on the hill where Carcassonne now stands. The earliest known site dates back to 6 B.C., when a fort was established to overlook the trade route linking the Atlantic with the Mediterranean and Spain with the rest of Europe.
Between 1 BC and 27 AD, the settlement, known as Carcaso Volcarum Tectosagum, was transformed into a Roman town, Colonia Iulia Carcaso. By the late 3rd century, massive walls surrounded the city — fortifications that would be destroyed, rebuilt, and restored across the centuries. These walls are what ultimately earned Carcassonne its UNESCO World Heritage status as one of the best-restored medieval fortified cities in the world.
Carcassonne Through the Ages
Carcassonne’s walls and the people inside were irresistible targets for those who wanted to control this strategic crossroads. The Visigoths ruled from the 5th to 6th centuries, and traces of their cathedral remain. Arabs followed, until Pepin the Short’s siege in 759 led to the Romanesque Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus in 1096.
By the 13th century, Carcassonne had expanded with a castle, the Château Comtal, complete with a drawbridge and a defensive ditch. Even today, you can spot sections of wall that reveal their Roman origin, marked by red brick layers and terracotta roof tiles.
Much of what visitors see now is thanks to 19th-century architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, who began restoring Carcassonne in 1855. Without his vision, the city might have been lost to ruin.
The outside of the cathedral, like others of its kind in the south of France, has no flying buttresses.
Stability for the structure is provided by interior vaulting.
By the end of the 13th century, Carcassonne had acquired a castle, Château Comtaland, and an extension of the fortified wall. As it is today, the castle has a drawbridge and a ditch leading to the entrance.
One section of the wall is notably Roman because of its layers of red brick and the shallow pitch of its terracotta tile roofs. Architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc is responsible for guiding the restoration of the city that many people enjoy today. Starting in 1855, he entirely designed the city, rebuilding what was nothing more than ruins.
The Legend of Dame Carcas
Like every great fortress, Carcassonne has its myths. One oft-told legend explains how the city got its name. Under siege and facing starvation, the people tricked their attackers with a clever ruse. A woman named Dame Carcas stuffed the last pig with food and threw it over the walls. Seeing the healthy animal, the enemy assumed the city was well-fed and abandoned their attack. According to legend, the town was named “Carcassonne” in her honor, and her likeness can still be found on a city gate.
Carcassonne Today: Medieval Meets Modern
Modern-day Carcassonne has two distinct sides: the Cité de Carcassonne, the walled medieval city, and the newer “lower town,” which was built after residents were expelled in 1347. Approaching the fortress is unforgettable — its towers and walls can be seen for miles. Crossing the old drawbridge, you step into a world few in the 21st century experience outside of storybooks.
Inside, the atmosphere blends the ancient and the modern. Narrow cobblestone lanes are lined with shops, cafés, and souvenir stands. Don’t miss the tourist office just inside the gate — it’s the best place to arrange a guided walking tour. The stories and details a good guide shares bring history to life.
Once inside the vast, expansive stone passageway, the ancient-ness quickly fades away into modern-day tourism. Gift shops, candy stores, and souvenir places are everywhere along the narrow streets.
If you’re not careful, you’ll miss the tourist office, located just inside and to the right of the entrance. My advice? Find it and schedule a walking tour. The guide for my visit was superb.
Another idea? Ride the miniature train that encircles the grounds, inside and out. It’s not just for kids… or, instead, for kids of all ages.
Things to Do in Carcassonne
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Take a walking tour: Guides bring medieval sieges and defenses vividly to life.
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Ride the mini train: It circles both inside and outside the walls, making it perfect for families or anyone who wants a complete view of the surroundings.
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Visit Château Comtal: Step across the drawbridge and into the restored castle.
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Admire the Basilica: The Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus is a gem of Romanesque and Gothic architecture.
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Enjoy the views: From the ramparts, the “new city” spreads out below, framed by the Pyrenees on the horizon.
Best Time to Visit Carcassonne
Carcassonne is open year-round, but timing matters.
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Off-season (November–March): Fewer tourists, better for exploring with a guide.
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Summer (June–August): Expect large crowds, but lively events and festivals.
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July 14 (Bastille Day): Carcassonne hosts one of the most spectacular fireworks shows in France — a bucket-list experience, if you can brave the crowds.
Getting to Carcassonne
Carcassonne is easily accessible by train, just over two hours from Barcelona and connected to Toulouse and other French cities. It’s a rewarding day trip — or better yet, an overnight stop to enjoy the fortress after day-trippers leave.
Thanks to Pete Bine for sharing photos for this post
Train from Barcelona
Carcassonne is just over two hours from Barcelona by train.
More information on Carcassonne and upcoming events.
