If you’re thinking of heading to Uzรจs this summer or anywhere else in the south of France, you should get to France via Barcelona.ย
When friends talk about visiting the south of France, I always suggest they look at airfare and consider flying into Barcelona. It’s just a short train ride to some of the most popular destinations in France. I will emphasize the idea now that I’ve spent a few days in Barcelona. The city and the Catalan area of Spain shouldn’t be missed. In just two days, I sampled some of my favorite things — astonishing architecture, food, and shopping.
“Modernisme” at its best
I first visited Barcelona in 1966 with two college girlfriends from the University of North Carolina. We were on a “Europe-on-$5-a-day” tour in my new “fastback” VW. We’d picked up the car in London and traveled for nearly two months before arriving in Barcelona. Our mission was to attend a bullfight and eat paella. That’s all we knew about Spain, even though I had picked up some of the language in university Spanish classes.
Little did I know I would return to Barcelona 50 years later and find the city almost unrecognizable.ย
Who knew the Arena where we watched the famous matadorย Jesus Cordobรฉs reign supreme would be a shopping centerย in 2016?
What a shame we didn’t do some homework before our 60s tour and learn aboutย Antoni Gaudรญ and his magnificent architecture.ย On the other hand, I was thrilled 50 years later to discover some of his most famous masterpieces.
The Basรญlica de la Sagrada Famรญliaย is a large Roman Catholic church in Barcelona, which began construction in 1882 under the auspices of the Spiritual Association of Devotees of Saint Joseph. Architect Francisco de Paula del Villar y Lozano began the project but resigned and turned it over to Catalan-Spanish architect Antoni Gaudรญ. The Spanish Gothic/Modernisme/Art Nouveau structures have been a steady challenge for architects and builders since their first stones were laid. The centuries-old basilica and adjoining rooms, still being executed according to Gaudรญ’s plans, are expected to be completed in 2026.
I hope to be around to see it!
Casa Batllรณ, also known as Casa dels osseous (House of Bones), is a landmark building in the center of Barcelona. The house was remodeled by Gaudรญ in 1904 as part of a trend in Modernism in the city’s wealthy residential district during the late 19th century. The revitalized downtown area, known as “mansana de la discรฒrdia” or “block of discord,” features three re-constructed houses, each of contrasting designs — Casa Batllรณ by Gaudรญ, which is next door toย Casa Amatller by Puig i Cadafalch, and down the street is Domรจnech i Montaner‘sย Casa Lleรณ Morera.
Not one to “stay within the lines,” Gaudรญ had a vision for Casa Batllรณ that included a rounded version of everything — from windows to hallways.
Perhaps the most breathtaking parts of the house were the “servant’s quarters” on the top floor, the stairway to the rooftop … and the incredible views.
The theory behind the rounded features Gaudรญ created for Casa Batllรณ is that he envisioned Saint George, the patron saint of Catalonia, plunging a lance into a dragon.ย
Casa Amatller was the first of the homes to be updated by neoclassical architects in Barcelona’s “mansana de la discรฒrdia” section. Owned by chocolatier Antoni Amatller Costa, the mansion was built in 1875 and redesigned in 1898 by Antoni Puigi Cadafalch, one of the most prolific Catalan architects and town planners of the early 20th century. Inspired by traditional Catalan and Gothic styles, Puig was influenced by European trends of the time, including exposed brick, tile, and wrought iron.
Antoni Amatller was a renowned industrialist famous for introducing a revolutionary system that allowed for the quick and large-scale production of chocolate. He was also an avid collector. The home still contains original family furnishings and collectibles. Antoni Amatller died in 1910. His daughter, Teresa, continued the chocolate business until she sold Chocolates Amatller S.A. After she died in 1960, the home was converted into a museum under the guardianship of the Barcelona City Council. It became the Fundaciรณ Institut Amatller d’Art Hispร nic (Amatller Institute of Hispanic Art).
If you aren’t familiar with Chocolates Amatller, a lovely store is located on the museum’s ground floor, complete with a variety of chocolate treats to enjoy on the spot or take away. Need I say that some of that sweet chocolate for the hot chocolate found its way into my suitcase?
Casa Lleรณ I Morera was refurbished in the late 1800s by architect Lluรญs Domรจnech I Montaner, commissioned by wealthy divorcรฉe Francisca Morera Oritz. Unfortunately, Oritz died before living in the mansion. Her son, Albert Lleรณ I Morera, and his family took charge of the house, hence the name. Recently opened to the public, I had only viewed the mansion from the outside. Next time, I won’t miss it!
Food to die for!
Tapas, pizza, and cafes galore fill the streets of Barcelona. My quest was to try as much of it as possible. What better way than to go for tapas? These were some of the best.
Shop in style
You don’t have to spend a dime to enjoy shopping in Barcelona. (Although I’m sure you will find something you love if you’re like me!) ย The shops are a treat in themselves.
Logistics for a 2-day visit to Barcelona
Arriving at the airport in Barcelona, there are several means of transportation into the city. I suggest taking a train from the airport terminal and arriving at the Barcelona-Sants train station (Sants Estaciรณ) in the city center. You can board the train directly in front of Terminal 2 at the airport. If your flight arrives at Terminal 1, a free shuttle service is available to Terminal 2. When you arrive at the downtown station, dozens of taxis can take you to your Barcelona destination. The bonus is that it’s the same station where you’ll take your train when you depart for France. You already know your way!
Barcelona city tour
One of the first things I do when traveling, especially in a large city, is take a city bus tour. You can do it in several ways, from a scheduled van or bus tour to a hop-on, hop-off bus. I prefer the hop-on-off variety. Barcelona is such a large and diverse city that some bus companies offer a one-day ticket with three different routes. My hotel was located in the heart of the central downtown area, within walking distance to the sites I most wanted to see, so I chose the two-hour Red route, which took me to the former Olympic Games site, the beaches, and the port of Barcelona. Next time I visit, I’ll see more.
Where to stay in Barcelona
Depending on the length of your visit to Barcelona and the Catalan region, there are numerous options for accommodations. I was thrilled with my choice in Barcelona – Hostel Casa Gracia Barcelona on this short visit. The hotel/hostel is located on Passeig de Grร cia, in the heart of a bustling business, tourist, and restaurant district. Except for the hop-on bus tour, I walked everywhere!
How to get to France via Barcelona? Trains to the South of France
Perpignan, Narbonne, Carcassonne, and Toulouse are some destinations you can visit in France from Barcelona. Stops include Bรฉziers, Adge, Sรจte, Montpellier, Nimes, Avignon, Aix en Provence, Marseille, Valence, Lyon, and Parรญs. Stops you might want to make in Spain are Girona and Figueras. Go by train!
Bon Voyage!
