One of the things I enjoy most about traveling through France is meeting Americans who have made a life here. During my “Epic & 80” visit to Saint-Malo with Patricia Sands, I met Brendan Hart, a young man from New Hampshire who now calls Brittany home. His path to France was very different from mine, but like so many of us, it began with a sense of adventure. I asked Brendan to share why he chose Saint-Malo—and why he believes it deserves a place on every France Travel itinerary.
Meet Brendan
“Being from New Hampshire, I never imagined living somewhere without mountains. Yet I was overcome by the overwhelming beauty of Saint-Malo. I had first heard about it when I read All The Light We Cannot See.
When I first visited the city in person, I fell under its spell, the history, the striking coastline. My wife and I were married in the Saint-Malo castle and given a book about the city’s history. This was the impetus for me to start Saint-Malo Guided Tours.
Why is Saint-Malo different from other French coastal towns?
France has 3,400 miles of coastline. Much of it is stunning. Yet among the seafront cities along the French coast, Saint-Malo stands out boldly, a granite marvel watching over the Atlantic. Saint-Malo has Celtic roots. Maclovious (now Malo) was a Welsh saint who arrived in the area in the 6th century. The city’s history is imbued with the dream-like stories of evangelizing Celts crossing the English Channel into an unknown land. The peninsula was named after him when his followers brought his skull and right hand to it.
Saint-Malo is located on a peninsula, surrounded by walls.
The city and its mighty walls are enveloped by the sea. The entire old town feels like a massive granite ship that has endured nearly a thousand years of waves. The bay of Saint-Malo is home to some of the biggest tides in Europe, and there’s something dramatic about watching the sea pull back at low tide, as if it were a living thing. The original city of Saint-Malo had been ravaged by Vikings. When the new city was built on the peninsula in the 12th century, its defense was a priority. The walls of Saint-Malo date back to the 1100s and were moved, modified, and enlarged until the 19th century.
But just because the city was surrounded by walls doesn’t mean its citizens were afraid to look beyond them.
In the 17th and 18th centuries, Saint-Malo was one of the wealthiest ports in France. The city’s intrepid merchants and explorers shaped the modern world. Saint-Malo’s sailors helped establish some of the first trade links with the Americas and the East Indies, bringing tremendous riches to its elite merchant class.
It is famous for its fierce Corsairs.
Corsairs were legal pirates. Civilians were given permission to attack enemy ships during wartime. Saint-Malo was a hub of these surly sailors, and the city’s history is rife with conflicts with the British.
What can you see in a day or two in Saint-Malo?
Saint-Malo is in itself a destination filled with things to see and do. What’s more, Saint-Malo can be reached in a 2 ½ hour train ride from Paris. Here’s a concise list of what I recommend for a short trip to the city:
Take a guided walking tour with me.
I’ll tell you the stories and secrets that make this city so wondrous. We’ll do fun activities along the way, like WW2 read-alouds and a Breton biscuit tasting.
Walk out to Chateaubriand’s tomb.
At low tide, a cobblestone walkway is unveiled, allowing you to trek out to the Grand Bé island in front of the city walls. On the island lies the tomb of France’s first Romantic writer, Chateaubriand
Go swimming
Saint-Malo is surrounded by fabulous beaches. There’s even a picturesque public seawater pool located just in front of the city. Just outside the city’s walls, you have the Sillon Beach, an immense 2-mile-long swathe of sand that is one of the top-rated beaches in France.
Enjoy a galette and a cup of cider.
A visit to Saint-Malo isn’t complete without eating at one of the city’s creperies, where buckwheat pancakes known as “Galettes” are served. They are cooked in butter and filled with savory ingredients. Be sure to order a cup of local apple cider for an authentic Breton experience.
Best creperies ➡️ Bergamote, Breizh Café, La Duchesse Anne, Le Corps de Garde
Visit Saint-Vincent’s Cathedral
The Cathedral at the heart of the city is one of the first Gothic cathedrals in Brittany. Step inside to admire 12th-century architecture.
Join me on a guided E-Bike Tour.
On my E-Bike Tours, we explore what’s outside the walls. We ride through coastal historic sites and enjoy views of pristine French countryside.
What can be seen around Saint-Malo?
Saint-Malo is also worth visiting because there is so much to see in the area. From Saint-Malo, you are 45 minutes away from Mont-Saint-Michel. There are several other wonderful little towns to visit just nearby: Cancale, France’s oyster capital; Dinard, the capital of the Belle Époque bathing scene; and Dinan, a marvelous little medieval city that will charm your socks off.
Saint-Malo should be on your list of places to visit when you come to France. It can be tied in with a trip to Paris and Normandy, and it lets you learn about a city that leaves you steeped in profound wonder. “
Note: After spending time in Saint-Malo, I understand why Brendan chose to make his life there. It’s a city that rewards curiosity, whether you’re drawn by its history, its coastline, or simply the chance to experience a different side of France.
If you’re planning a visit to Saint-Malo, Brendan’s Saint Malo Guided Tours offer a chance to experience the city through the eyes of someone who chose to make it home. I’m certain he will be glad to answer your questions about what it is like to live in this historic sea town.
