Epic & 80 Road Trip | Stop 1: Rouen France
If someone had asked me what I knew about Rouen, France, before the Epic & 80 road trip, my answer would have been simple: Joan of Arc. By the end of our visit, I’d added Claude Monet, Julia Child, and memories of one of the most enjoyable afternoons of our five-week journey through France.
As my travel buddy, Patricia Sands, and I planned our road trip, Patricia reminded me that Rouen held two more stories I didn’t want to miss. Claude Monet had returned here more than 30 times to paint the city’s magnificent cathedral. Then there was La Couronne, the historic restaurant where Julia Child is said to have enjoyed the meal that sparked her lifelong passion for French cuisine.
By the time we arrived from Paris, Rouen had become much more than the city of Joan of Arc. It had become a destination where history, art, and food come together within one remarkably walkable historic center.
From Joan of Arc to Monet
We began our visit to Rouen at Place du Vieux-Marché, where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake on May 30, 1431. Today, it is one of Rouen’s liveliest squares. Cafés spill onto the sidewalks, visitors gather beneath colorful umbrellas, and the city market occupies one side of the plaza. It is difficult to imagine that one of France’s most significant historical events unfolded here nearly six centuries ago.
A simple cross marks the approximate site of Joan’s execution, while the striking Church of Saint Joan of Arc stands beside it. Its modern architecture contrasts sharply with the surrounding half-timbered buildings, reminding visitors that Rouen continues to evolve while never forgetting its past.
From there, Patricia and I wandered through Rouen’s medieval streets, passing beneath the famous Gros-Horloge. One of France’s oldest astronomical clocks, it has watched over the city for centuries and is reason enough to slow your pace. The narrow streets connecting the old market square and the cathedral are lined with beautifully preserved timber-framed buildings, small shops, and cafés that make Rouen one of Normandy’s most enjoyable cities to explore on foot.
At the end of the walk stands Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen.
Like many people, I knew the cathedral through the paintings of Claude Monet. Between 1892 and 1894, he painted its façade more than thirty times, fascinated by the changing effects of light on the Gothic stone.
Standing in front of it, I finally understood why. Every passing cloud seemed to transform the building. It wasn’t simply the cathedral Monet painted—it was light itself.
Inside, another piece of Norman history quietly rests. The cathedral contains the tomb of William Longsword, Duke of Normandy, son of Rollo, the Viking leader associated with the founding of Normandy. It is one more reminder that Rouen’s history stretches far beyond the stories for which it is best known.
A Market and a Memorable Lunch
Returning toward Place du Vieux-Marché, we stopped at the city’s market. Part indoors and part outdoors, it is filled with permanent stalls selling seafood, cheeses, meats, produce, and flowers. We arrived a little too late to see it at its busiest, with many vendors already packing away for the day. It was my reminder—once again—that French markets are always best experienced in the morning.
Just across the square stands La Couronne.
Established in 1345, La Couronne is widely regarded as one of France’s oldest inns and restaurants still in operation. For Americans, however, it is forever linked with Julia Child, who described her first unforgettable French meal there in My Life in France. She later credited that lunch with awakening her love of French cuisine and setting her on the path that would change the way Americans cooked.
The restaurant proudly embraces that history.
One of the first things I noticed was the large portrait of Julia Child hanging in the dining room. Since I was seated directly across from it, something else caught my attention.
It wasn’t hanging straight.
Finally, I smiled and asked the maître d’ if he would mind adjusting it. He laughed, walked over, straightened the portrait, and seemed genuinely amused that someone had noticed.
For the rest of lunch, Julia and I were eye to eye.
It’s a tiny moment, but those are often the memories that stay with you long after a trip ends.
Why Rouen Is Worth Visiting
Many travelers continue from Paris directly to Honfleur or the Normandy beaches. Rouen deserves more than a quick stop along the way.
I came because of Joan of Arc.
I left with a deeper appreciation for Claude Monet, a memorable lunch connected to Julia Child, and a much better understanding of why Rouen has inspired historians, artists, and travelers for centuries.
Three icons.
Three centuries.
One remarkable city.
14 Responses
I would also add, for those interested, La Musée des Céramique. We went, in a day trip from Paris, in 2019 ( I think). Fabulous. Both the collections and the museum itself. I designed ceramics for years so it was of special interest!
Thank you! I moved to France partially out of my love for medieval French and British history. Rouen is high on my list to visit from my town of Saumur. I highly recommend Helen Castor’s book on Joan of Arc to understand this remarkable woman and the history of the time.
Thank you, Cat. I was just remarking that I need to return to Rouen to learn more about Joan of Arc. Now I have a reference to read, too. Let me know if you get to visit.. happy travels…
We were there last year; a stop on our Paris thru Normandy cruise. Yes, the cathedral is truly magnificent! I wish I had known about Julia Child’s experience at the restaurant, too!
Of course, the stop was memorable because of the Joan of Arc historical significance and huge clock!
Lucky you, to have 5 weeks touring! 💕
Rouen is trop charmant, and definitely worth more than just a quick stop on the way to Normandy! Thank you for including the many reasons to slow down and appreciate Rouen!
one of our favorite destinations! https://wobblyrambler.com/rouen/
While I might never get back to Rouen, the day spent there was a true highlight. I’d love to know your favorites.
Very informative article, sounds like a great place to explore. Must put Rouen on my bucket list!
I’d actually like to return to delve into the story of Joan of Arc a bit more. I’d love another visit to La Coronne, too! Thanks for your note to let me know you’re here… hope you’ll stay tuned …
Hello Deboray,
I work at the tourist office of Rouen, in charge of international relations. I thank you a lot for this nice writing on Rouen, Joan of Arc and the gastronomy. Rouen is the only and first creativ city of gastronomy for UNESCO. If you want to know everything about Joan of Arc, the Historial on the spot were she was juged and rehabilitated afterwards is perfect. We have a very nice lightshow on the cathedral created by a famous japanese artist Mika Ninagawa until the middle of september. I you come back just let me know, it would be so happy to meet you.
Best regards
Yannick
Thank you so much for your kind note. It was my pleasure to visit Rouen and I hope to return. There is so much more to explore and learn. I would love to take you up on your invitation to meet. Please see the reels on Instagram and posts of Rouen on the Barefoot Blogger Instagram and Facebook pages. There is great interest in your beautiful, historic town. Best regards.
Debbie, I enjoy your travels vicariously now that I am not able to make such journeys. I will have lunch on Tuesday with the IBM Store Systems gang that meets quarterly. I plan to tell them of your blog and that of Breck Barker (called Woof 2) that describes his RV travels witrh his wife, Cheri, and dog as they roam North America. They are in British Columbia right now. Thanks for sharing your experiences and photos.
Thank you for this article about one of my favorite people, Julia Child. I had the privilege of meeting her in the Napa Valley. She was a guest at the winery where my husband was winemaker at a fundraiser for her charity. We sat at the same table at a lunch in a wine cave. She was warm, funny, and delightful, and her books taught me French cooking!
Carol, I can’t wait to talk with you about your meeting with Julia Childs. How wonderful! I’m in UK for the month tracking some new stories about my ancestors. Also, to get out of the heat in Uzès! Mon dieu! Looking forward to many visits with you when I return. Thanks for reading and following the blogsite.