Epic & 80 Road Trip | Stop 1: Rouen France
If someone had asked me what I knew about Rouen, France, before the Epic & 80 road trip, my answer would have been simple: Joan of Arc. By the end of our visit, I’d added Claude Monet, Julia Child, and memories of one of the most enjoyable afternoons of our five-week journey through France.
As my travel buddy, Patricia Sands, and I planned our road trip, Patricia reminded me that Rouen held two more stories I didn’t want to miss. Claude Monet had returned here more than 30 times to paint the city’s magnificent cathedral. Then there was La Couronne, the historic restaurant where Julia Child is said to have enjoyed the meal that sparked her lifelong passion for French cuisine.
By the time we arrived from Paris, Rouen had become much more than the city of Joan of Arc. It had become a destination where history, art, and food come together within one remarkably walkable historic center.
From Joan of Arc to Monet
We began our visit to Rouen at Place du Vieux-Marché, where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake on May 30, 1431. Today, it is one of Rouen’s liveliest squares. Cafés spill onto the sidewalks, visitors gather beneath colorful umbrellas, and the city market occupies one side of the plaza. It is difficult to imagine that one of France’s most significant historical events unfolded here nearly six centuries ago.
A simple cross marks the approximate site of Joan’s execution, while the striking Church of Saint Joan of Arc stands beside it. Its modern architecture contrasts sharply with the surrounding half-timbered buildings, reminding visitors that Rouen continues to evolve while never forgetting its past.
From there, Patricia and I wandered through Rouen’s medieval streets, passing beneath the famous Gros-Horloge. One of France’s oldest astronomical clocks, it has watched over the city for centuries and is reason enough to slow your pace. The narrow streets connecting the old market square and the cathedral are lined with beautifully preserved timber-framed buildings, small shops, and cafés that make Rouen one of Normandy’s most enjoyable cities to explore on foot.
At the end of the walk stands Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen.
Like many people, I knew the cathedral through the paintings of Claude Monet. Between 1892 and 1894, he painted its façade more than thirty times, fascinated by the changing effects of light on the Gothic stone.
Standing in front of it, I finally understood why. Every passing cloud seemed to transform the building. It wasn’t simply the cathedral Monet painted—it was light itself.
Inside, another piece of Norman history quietly rests. The cathedral contains the tomb of William Longsword, Duke of Normandy, son of Rollo, the Viking leader associated with the founding of Normandy. It is one more reminder that Rouen’s history stretches far beyond the stories for which it is best known.
A Market and a Memorable Lunch
Returning toward Place du Vieux-Marché, we stopped at the city’s market. Part indoors and part outdoors, it is filled with permanent stalls selling seafood, cheeses, meats, produce, and flowers. We arrived a little too late to see it at its busiest, with many vendors already packing away for the day. It was my reminder—once again—that French markets are always best experienced in the morning.
Just across the square stands La Couronne.
Established in 1345, La Couronne is widely regarded as one of France’s oldest inns and restaurants still in operation. For Americans, however, it is forever linked with Julia Child, who described her first unforgettable French meal there in My Life in France. She later credited that lunch with awakening her love of French cuisine and setting her on the path that would change the way Americans cooked.
The restaurant proudly embraces that history.
One of the first things I noticed was the large portrait of Julia Child hanging in the dining room. Since I was seated directly across from it, something else caught my attention.
It wasn’t hanging straight.
Finally, I smiled and asked the maître d’ if he would mind adjusting it. He laughed, walked over, straightened the portrait, and seemed genuinely amused that someone had noticed.
For the rest of lunch, Julia and I were eye to eye.
It’s a tiny moment, but those are often the memories that stay with you long after a trip ends.
Why Rouen Is Worth Visiting
Many travelers continue from Paris directly to Honfleur or the Normandy beaches. Rouen deserves more than a quick stop along the way.
I came because of Joan of Arc.
I left with a deeper appreciation for Claude Monet, a memorable lunch connected to Julia Child, and a much better understanding of why Rouen has inspired historians, artists, and travelers for centuries.
Three icons.
Three centuries.
One remarkable city.
One Response
I would also add, for those interested, La Musée des Céramique. We went, in a day trip from Paris, in 2019 ( I think). Fabulous. Both the collections and the museum itself. I designed ceramics for years so it was of special interest!